Again, there aren't any footpegs that are available for the bike bar the standard ones, again sold as spare parts. So once more I had a look to see what I could find for the CBR 125 the chassis is based on. Once more I found some on Ebay, they seemed to also be for other Honda CBR models too. I found a pair of front & back pegs together in CNC gold aluminium, the gold for obvious reasons once more there would be other colours available. The pegs were of a knurled rounded bar type. The original rubber coated pegs work fine but after a while the rubber wears & starts to fray and look a mess. Basically apart from aesthetics your buying a peg to last the long haul. Again its another cheap one, if you buy front and back pegs together it will be a little more than just one or the other, however it might be cheaper all together in the long run if you do.
Rear pegs.
The back pegs fit fine using the original pin & e-clip, however I also used a rubber Penny washer as there was some slight looseness / play & they didn't lock in place as firmly as I wanted. With the rubber washer (ebay or diy store) in place however all was fine. Using a steel washer would cause it to stick but the rubber one will mean it will flex as needed and give the best amount of resistance.
[Removing the E-Clip from the original pin with a precision screwdriver].
Front pegs.
When it came to the front pegs however, things were different. The holes on the pegs were slightly larger and as so we're loose and wouldn't stay relatively straight. So I needed to use some bolts and a few nuts. A pair of M6 bolts (which come with two nuts) along with a packet of M6 nuts I bought from a local Halfords store did the job ok.
While we're on the subject these steel M6 bolts although a little longer could replace the bolts that bolt the speedometer / gauge to the chassis, just in case you should need a replacement or higher quality rust proof steel bolt. Of course there is nothing stopping you trimming the bolt with a hacksaw or even, if you can get one elsewhere at a slightly shorter length but, the slightly extra length doesn't impede anything as I tried it out of curiosity.
Using the extra nuts I arranged them as shown above with one nut located inside the two points on the peg locking the one part up to the top of the bracket, the other nut locking the same through bolt to the bottom of the bracket. Another nut is then used over the top of the first one to lock the first nut in place so no vibration or change in temperature will work it loose over time. Even so it's always good to check everything's nice and tight.
Be careful when removing the e-clips from the pins as they can spring off and get lost very easily. If so you can buy e-clip packs on eBay for a few £. DIY stores may also sell them but usually in the big assorted packs and you only need one size and not many (depending how many you lose), it's just knowing the size you need. If you don't then of course one of these assorted box sets will have your size but you will be left with quite a few other clips you just don't need for probably next to forever. The assorted sets cost under a tenner (£10) so not a huge sum but a few of the size you want would only be about £1.50. When removing them place a small box, tin or container over so if they fall or spring off they will likely fall into the box.
*L.E.D update.
In a previous post we talked about changing the T10 day running / riding light for an L.E.D one. Unfortunately, they just dont seem to last the week without blowing. Having tried two different brands to no avail! This is likely down to cheap components on cheap far eastern parts in the T10 main components themselves. After all, reading the Amazon reviews many have that same problem fitting to their cars (they blow after not very long), so I'm likely to get Xenon T10 bulbs for the same effect, of course though this won't lessen the wattage output. It has to be down to cheap components as the L.E.D indicators would've stopped working a long time ago! If there were problems with the voltage (likely voltage regulator / rectifier) then the indicators would have gone too. I don't fancy trying all and sundry when it comes to L.E.D T10 bulbs to find a good one now as changing them & having to remove the speedo gets to be a pain in the arse when they blow every 5 minutes, especially when you're using the bike. I'll just pop a Xenon bulb in there and leave it. It just makes me wonder for when I have to change the rear / brake bulb, will that bulb be a duff far eastern cheap job blowing in 5 minutes as well? The ones I have are of an SMD L.E.D type, the same ones on our problematic T10s. The L.E.Ds on the indicators are of the more standard type and this is where I think I might have more joy. The cheap SMDs used just seem to be plain crap.
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