Thursday 30 June 2016

Replacing starter motor


Replacing starter motor.




Ok, so as mentioned before, I was looking at replacing the starter motor next, to get to solve the issue with my ignition. I'll say before we start that even this didn't solve my ignition button / start issue. The issue is likely to be with the circuit itself now, from the battery to the solenoid to the starter motor. It's the only thing left really. I'm talking about the loop connectors or the wires themselves and that there could be a dodgy / loose connection somewhere. I'm hoping the wire that connects to the starter motor from solenoid is the issue as there is a new one included with the new motor. I didn't use this but used the old one as it was already in position. I do point out though in the video that if it still doesn't solve the issue, it's a good idea to try the new cable because there could be an issue with the old one. But once again time was the issue, I had to get the bike back together. 

It could be why it was working but lackluster in operation before and stopped altogether as the wire got knocked some more, especially after changing the solenoid. So it's plausible. I also checked the fuse in the little white plastic case down by the battery & that was fine. That's the only fuse I could find. No little red square auto fuse anywhere (I don't know why Lexmoto's spares page has one unless some have that instead of what we have here?), just a transparent glass fuse inside like the ones inside your electrical appliance plugs at home. I could already see the wire was fine inside it but swapped it out for the spare one that was included inside also, just for good measure. Of course it made no difference.

When it comes to changing the starter motor, of course the bike has very close quarters thanks to the chassis but, you don't have to remove the side fairing at all. You will however, have to remove the clutch cable from the actuator arm to get the motor out through that small space in front. If you push the arm forwards it will create slack and you can slide the cable out. You can slide the cable out with some pliers if you find it hard by hand. Once again this is easier and quicker with two people but can be done just by yourself.



Then you will need to pull back the rubber cap and unscrew the nut holding the electrical cable on the starter motor and remove it. Once that has been done the two fixing bolts facing you can be removed. Be careful because there are some spacers / bushes (they are spacers but look just like brass / metal bushes do) underneath they may be covered by some muck and look all in one / flush with the motor. Don't loose these, you will need them for the new one as none are included with a new motor.



Now you need to remove or pull out the old motor, I did this by putting some tie wraps through the bolt loops in the motor to give me something to pull on. I also gave it a little push from the front with two fingers from the other side. Mine was in pretty tight, if I didn't think about the tie wraps / zip ties I'm sure it would've been a struggle. It came out eventually.



Putting the new motor in is just a reverse process, you will need to take a rubber protector off the end if it has one, before locating into the gear. When you do locate it into the gear put it in at a slight angle and turn it slightly back and forth to locate it / line it up with the gear. When it's lined up you should be able to turn it some more to line up the fixing points. Don't forget to add those spacers again!. 

Once the cable or new cable has been fixed back on, then you can put the clutch cable back & try it out. Remember that the new cable will also have to be joined at the other end to the solenoid.

Watching the video above will give a better understanding.
 
I would keep your old starter motor, in my case if it is the circuit then there could be nothing wrong with it anyway but, even still it is possible to recondition them, even if spares for these ones might be hard to come by. You never know, even then if they are identical clones to Honda then you might be in luck with Honda parts. Even so things like the casing might be of use, if you crack your current one's casing the components inside can be just swapped over, even if it's knackered. 

It's just another brushed motor at the end of the day, it has brushes that wear out & and armature inside with a copper commutator that could clog up from the brushes wearing out. You might be able to get some replacement brushes or even find the brushes to be good on your old one to keep hold of (unlikely as I would of thought that a main issue with failure) you never know.

I would also point out that the starter motors seem to point a significance to them being for the OHC engine (XTRS) over the OHV engine (XTR) when buying. As opposed to some universal FMI 156 / 157 set up. Why this is I don't know? Maybe it needs a more torque-y motor for one opposed to the other? Maybe they just don't line up with fixings? So make sure you get the right one. Obviously look at the number KS125-24 for the XTRS & KS125-23 for XTR other brand names also use either engine type so you need to look at the model number or ask for OHC/OHV which ever you need. I think Skyjet use the similar model numbers SJ125-24 / SJ125-23. They also have different models which use the exact same engine like the SJ125-27, so that starter motor can be used. Are the motors interchangable, I don't know so just get the one stated for the right engine type. The removal and swapping process will be the same however.



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