Changing the front lights.

Changing the forward facing bulbs.

Ok, so on to the changing over of the bulbs. In fact changing the bulbs wasn't that big of a deal with this bike after all. I was having nightmares like some sports bikes of having to remove the whole front fairing. Which is where the more boring looking bikes with the old circular chrome headlights excel 'in easy bulb access'. After removing each side quarter panel faring as I call them (the little corner pieces that are joined to the front headlight fairing and the side fairing with three screws) you can actually get good enough access to each main headlight bulb from either side. However, if you are changing the riding light bulb you will find it easier to remove the speedo / dials gauge by the two bolts, there's a little locking pin in the middle the same as with on the side panels onto the petrol tank, this just needs to be pulled up out of the rubber ring and the speedo can be just moved to the side. It won't be completely free because of the cables that are still attached.
Obviously we are changing both lights out here at once and so the speedo being moved will also give a little more room for the main headlight section.

Riding light.

The riding light is located under the curved black plastic piece you can see in the above picture. You should be able to locate it by it's wiring leading up to it. The bulb is locked in place by the keyed rubber holder it's located in, that is turned and locked in the location. You will need to turn this in the opposite direction to unlock it, then you can pull it out to get to the bulb.

The bulb then will just pull out in an upwards motion from it's holder. Be careful not to use too much pressure or you will shatter the bulb into your fingers! The replacement will just slot back down into the holder, in this case we are using the L.E.D T10 replacements as shown in the previous blog post Do you see the light?

Just a quick test to see if it's working before I put it back in place and you can clearly see it's already much brighter as well as much more whiter opposed to the duller yellowish hue of previous, although using less wattage.

The same can be said when put back into the lens and turned to lock it back in place. Much more whiter and brighter through the lens.


The main headlight.

When it comes to changing the main headlight bulbs, theres a rubber cap on the wiring for the bulb which helps stop moisture getting onto the connection, this needs to be carefully moved / slid back on the wire to expose the bulb.

Then pull off the square black connector block.
After this there is a two pronged locking pin mechanism holding the bulbs in place. These need to both be un-hooked and then flipped back (they will flip right back) and the bulb can be removed.

Now you can put your new HS1 bulbs / replacements in place in reverse order. There are three tangs on the HS1 bulb's edge that locate as a key to the correct orientation of the bulb, so that shouldn't be a problem. Followed by making sure the rubber cover is back in place to keep the rain / water at bay.

Then once that's been done we can check the bulb works. And just repeat the process for the other side.

As mentioned at the top, if just changing these bulbs the speedo doesn't really need to be removed, just the quarter panels. And if your not changing dead bulbs then it's always wise to keep the original bulbs safe for a spare in an emergency!